John Nagayama's '96' Book: The Essential Guide to Patek Philippe's Rarest Calatravas
John Nagayama's '96' Book: The Essential Guide to Patek Philippe's Rarest Calatravas
John Nagayama, known as @johnbehalf on Instagram, has released a masterful book on one of Patek Philippe's most iconic references — the Reference 96. Now reprinted and available for purchase, this comprehensive guide offers collectors an invaluable resource for understanding the complexities of this legendary time-only Patek Philippe.
What is the Reference 96?
The Ref. 96 is one of Patek Philippe's quintessential dress watches. Produced from 1932 to 1973, Patek made approximately 10,000 of these time-only watches, which became the framework and measuring stick for virtually every dress watch that has come since. At just 30.5mm — small by today's standards — the Ref. 96 was recently brought back into the spotlight by TikTok personality Mike Nouveau, whose advocacy helped drive renewed interest and soaring prices for this vintage Patek reference.
Why This Book Matters
Nagayama is widely regarded as the undisputed king of the Reference 96. Based in Japan — which became the Mecca for small watches and 96 obsessives — he has spent years studying and collecting these watches. In "96," he shares a trove of incredible watches sourced from collectors, friends, and past clients.
The book is broken down into six chapters covering four series of Ref. 96 with subsidiary seconds (based on their movements), plus two series of center-second movements. It's not just a visual reference; the book includes sections on buckles, cases, and even original advertisements.
Understanding the Reference 96
| Production Years | 1932 – 1973 |
| Approximate Production | 10,000 pieces |
| Case Size | 30.5mm |
| Case Materials | Up to 6 (including two-tone) |
| Movement Series | 6 (4 subsidiary seconds, 2 center seconds) |
| Notable Dial Variations | Sector dials, retailer signatures, Breguet numerals, luminous indices |
| Record Sale | $200,000 for a steel, black-dial, long-signature example |
The Book's Appeal
The Ref. 96 has been a minefield for collectors. With hundreds of potential dial variations across six case materials, a lot can go wrong when purchasing one. As Hodinkee's review notes, "You really have to know what you're buying, and next to bubblebacks, this is probably one of the hardest watches to comprehend at a glance." This is precisely where Nagayama's book becomes essential.
Pricing and Availability
Out of the 450 copies released for sale just a few weeks ago, there are still a couple available. The book can be purchased from Nagayama's website for approximately $250 plus shipping — a fraction of the cost of a single Ref. 96 watch.
FAQ
Why is the Reference 96 so sought after?
The Ref. 96 is considered the quintessential dress watch and the framework against which all other dress watches are measured. Recent interest driven by social media has pushed prices to record levels, with rare examples selling for $200,000 or more.
How many pages is the book?
The book is a comprehensive visual and educational reference covering six chapters of movement series, along with sections on buckles, cases, and advertisements.
Where can I buy the book?
Orders can be placed through John Nagayama's website at onbehalf.jp, priced at approximately $250 plus shipping.
Source: Hodinkee
Read more: Patek Philippe Complete Guide | Vintage Watch Collecting