Sub-Style Dive Builds Compared: Vintage, Black, Bluesy and Two Tone
The Dive Icon, Four Ways
The Submariner-style dive watch is the template most collectors start with. Our Sub line covers four distinct personalities on the battle-tested NH35 — here they are side by side.
Vintage Sub NH35
The Vintage Sub NH35 leans retro: warm dial tones, aged-style markers, and proportions inspired by mid-century dive watches.
- Best for: vintage lovers who want new-watch reliability
- Strap pairing: distressed leather or the 20MM Rubber Strap
Black Sub NH35 With Date
The Black Sub NH35 With Date is the definitive daily diver — maximum legibility, date at 3 o'clock, no-nonsense matte black dial.
- Best for: first serious automatic, one-watch collections
- Lume: full coverage markers for genuine low-light use
Bluesy NH35
The Bluesy NH35 pairs a sunburst blue dial with a matching blue bezel — the two-tone color execution that photographs like jewelry.
- Best for: buyers who want sport function with dress polish
- Pairs with: steel bracelet for the full effect
Two Tone Gold Sub
The Two Tone Gold Sub mixes steel warmth with gold accents — the "presidential diver" formula that reads luxury without shouting.
- Best for: gifting and formal-leaning wearers
- See also: our Day-Date gold dial guide for matching dress pieces
All Four Share
- Seiko NH35: hand-winding, hacking seconds, 41-hour reserve
- Dive-grade rotating bezels and screw-down crowns
- Standard 20mm lug widths — every strap we sell fits
Frequently Asked Questions
Date or no-date for a first Sub?
Date adds daily utility; no-date buys symmetry. Our inventory covers both — check listings for current no-date availability.
Which holds up best to daily wear?
The Black Sub hides wear best; the Bluesy shows swirls but polishes out easily.
Can I swap dials between these models?
Within the same case family, yes — browse dials for compatible options.