Omega Refreshes Speedmaster 38mm Collection with Moonwatch-Inspired Design

Omega Redefines the Speedmaster 38mm: A Return to Moonwatch DNA

Omega has unveiled a comprehensively refreshed Speedmaster 38mm collection, headlined by a no-date black dial model that brings the compact automatic chronograph closer to the legendary Moonwatch than ever before. The seven-reference lineup marks a return to the original "Speedmaster Reduced" concept from 1988.

From "Reduced" to Refined: A Brief History

The Speedmaster 38mm traces its lineage to 1988, when Omega introduced the "Speedmaster Reduced" — a 39mm automatic chronograph that offered a more wearable alternative to the 42mm hand-wound Moonwatch. Produced until 2010, the Reduced became beloved for offering Moonwatch aesthetics in a more compact package.

In 2010, the model evolved into the Speedmaster 38mm with a new Calibre 3304 movement and a more feminine design direction. The 2017 update brought oval-shaped subdials, diamond bezels, and the distinctive "Cappuccino" variant. Now, the 2026 collection strips away the embellishments to return to the model's sporty roots.

The No-Date Model: Moonwatch DNA in 38mm

The star of the collection is the reference 324.30.38.50.01.002 — a steel-on-steel, no-date model that channels the Moonwatch's utilitarian spirit. The matte black dial features printed Super-LumiNova hour markers, white painted hands, and round subdials (replacing the previous oval design) — all directly inspired by the Professional Moonwatch.

The aluminum bezel features the classic tachymeter scale with "dot over ninety" and "dot diagonal to 70" — details that Moonwatch purists will recognize immediately. The redesigned case maintains the asymmetric profile with recessed crown and pushers, lyre-shaped twisted lugs, and a box-shaped sapphire crystal.

Movement: Calibre 3332

The no-date model is powered by the Calibre 3332, the date-free variant of the well-established Calibre 3330. Based on the Longines L688 architecture (itself an evolution of the Valjoux 7753), this integrated automatic chronograph features:

• Column-wheel mechanism for precise chronograph operation
• COSC chronometer certification
• Co-axial escapement
• Free-sprung balance with silicon hairspring
• 52-hour power reserve

While it shares architecture with movements used across the Swatch Group, Omega's execution includes distinctive finishing and the co-axial escapement technology that has become a brand signature.

Six Date Models: Colors and Materials

The remaining six references add a date window at 6 o'clock and use the Calibre 3330 movement. These span from classic steel configurations to precious metal accents:

• Steel, grey bezel — Opaline silvery dial with Sedna Gold PVD accents (EUR 6,600)
• Steel, blue ceramic bezel — White dial with blue CVD-coated hands (EUR 7,000)
• Steel and Moonshine Gold — Green bezel with gold accents (EUR 11,500)
• Steel and Sedna Gold — "Cappuccino" style with brown bezel (EUR 11,500)
• Diamond bezel, ice blue dial — 52 diamonds, 1.53 carats (EUR 12,100)
• Diamond bezel, mother-of-pearl dial — (EUR 12,900)

The Bracelet: Moonwatch Style

All models feature the new Nixon-style 5-link bracelet inspired by the current Moonwatch Professional. Short, rounded links provide vintage appeal and improved flexibility, with brushed surfaces accented by polished inner links. The folding clasp includes a comfort release adjustment system with two positions.

Market Impact and Pricing

The entry-level no-date black model is priced at EUR 6,400 (approximately CHF 5,100), making it the most accessible Speedmaster in Omega's current range. This positioning could attract new collectors to the Speedmaster family while offering existing enthusiasts a more compact option.

As Raynald Aeschlimann, President and CEO of Omega, stated: "The Speedmaster 38mm has always taken its cues from the Moonwatch. With this latest update, we've taken the Moonwatch inspiration even further."

Frequently Asked Questions

How does the 38mm compare to the Moonwatch in size?

At 38mm diameter versus the Moonwatch's 42mm, the new model offers a significantly more compact wearing experience. However, at 14.75mm thick, it's approximately 1.5mm thicker than the Moonwatch sapphire sandwich version.

Is the 38mm Speedmaster a Master Chronometer?

No. While the movement is COSC-certified as a chronometer and features Omega's co-axial escapement, the Calibre 3332 is one of the rare Omega movements not to carry Master Chronometer (METAS) certification.

Will the 38mm appeal to both men and women?

Yes. The compact 44.96mm lug-to-lug distance and 38mm diameter make this watch suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The no-date black model in particular has been designed as a unisex offering.

Source: Monochrome Watches

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